Wednesday, February 4, 2009
Since the 17th Century, coffee has been raised in Sumatra, one of the thousands of tiny islands that make up Indonesia. In the early days of coffee production, Dutch traders easily identified Sumatran beans by their distinctive dark green or aquamarine color and irregular shapes. Today, most coffee is grown by farmers on tiny plots of clay soil, using no chemicals. Much of the production is now organic and 19 farmers' cooperatives have met international standards to market it as Certified Fair Trade coffee.
Sumatra coffee is well known for its unique taste and subtle flavor differences. Some beans are strong and robust, especially the darker roasts; while others are a bit more delicate with chocolate undertones. Part of the flavor differences in Sumatra coffees are due to the unique ways the coffee beans are dried and processed. In most areas of Sumatra, the farmers remove the coffee beans from the cherries in stages. Their sometimes unorthodox methods of fruit removal and stages of drying decrease acidity, develop body, and the complexity of flavors that distinguish Sumatran coffee.
Varieties Of Sumatra Coffee
There are several different varieties of coffee and some bear the name of their region of origin. There is Sumatra Mandheling, from the northern part of the Sumatra, which is one of the finest coffees. These beans, as well as those from the Lintong region, are washed by farmers using rickety but picturesque machines made from scrap metal, wood, and bicycle parts. The beans are often dried in the farmer's front yard before going to a middleman's warehouse. Here they undergo more drying before being loaded on trucks and taken to the coffee exporter at the seaport of Medan, where there is additional drying time. The extended period of time that the beans are exposed to the pulp of the harvested fruit produces the deep tones in your cup of coffee.
Most Gayo Mountain coffee is shade-grown on hillsides near Lake Tawar on the northern tip of Sumatra. Much of Sumatra has been deforested for sun-grown coffee plantations and biodiversity research is underway comparing these farms to those in Mexico. It has been shown that shade grown coffee farms are sanctuaries for birds and wildlife and farmers are learning the benefits of biodiversity.
The islands of Indonesia from Sumatra to Java and Bali produce coffee which is full-bodied, with sweet overtones and a wonderful aroma. Try the different varieties - you're certain to discover pleasing new favorites.
By Jerry M Stein
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